Clipping of news on Brazilian Culture, Law and Citizenship
01/26/2012
This article was translated by an automatic translation system, and was therefore not reviewed by people.
Created by Brazilian Formula has been tested and is ready to be marketed
Researchers from USP (Universidade de São Paulo) in Ribeirão Preto developed a sunscreen that also protects against the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, improves texture and elasticity of the skin, stimulates cell renewal, moisturizes and reduces wrinkles.
According to the Agency FAPESP, the formula is a combination of two types of photoprotective substances in plant extracts of Ginkgo biloba and red seaweeds. Also added vitamins A, C and E.
The vitamins were added to stimulate cell renewal and improve the general conditions of the skin, thus developing a multi-purpose cream, according to pharmaceutical Patricia Maia Campos, the research coordinator.
- In previous research, we confirmed that some plant extracts were able to improve the conditions of photoaged skin and make it less vulnerable to radiation damage. Then came the idea to combine these statements to sunscreens to enhance the protective effect.
The first step of the project was to develop a formulation with photostable filters, ie, able to remain active in the presence of light, with a sun protection factor (SPF) 20. To do this, filters were combined chemical (organic), composed of molecules capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and transform them into low-energy rays harmless to the skin, and physical filters (inorganic), which reflect radiation and prevent its penetration.
- Then added plant extracts and vitamins. We tested various combinations of ingredients. The challenge was to create a product with sensory characteristics appropriate, because if you make a very greasy cream spreads or not, no one uses.
In partnership with the French laboratory Evic, the skin compatibility of the product was evaluated and attested to its safety for cosmetic use. In this time of the survey, in 2008, the group's work was presented at the Congress of the International Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Barcelona, Spain.
The results caught the attention of researchers from the Centre de Recherches et d'Investigations Épidermiques et Sensorielles of the French company Chanel.
- They invited us to visit the center and entered into a partnership. With the participation of my doctoral student Mirela Donato Gianeti , we investigated whether the formulation also protected against large climatic variations and the result was very positive.
Thanks to the presence of plant extracts, the skin of volunteers was free of damage on the high summer and winter and also in conditions of extreme temperature change.
In parallel, we evaluated the influence tactile perception of the cream of the volunteers.
This sensitivity, the expert explained, is impaired in aged skin.
- The formulation improved hydration and skin barrier function, ie decreased water loss in the superficial layer. This resulted in an improvement in tactile perception, because it brought back the conditions of a healthy skin.
According to Patricia, the formula is ready to be marketed, but there have been no contacts with companies in the industry accordingly.
Part of the research was published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology.
Tests on mice showed that the product developed at USP in Ribeirão Preto, reduced the presence of p53 and caspase-3, genetic markers that indicate cell damage caused by radiation.
- There was also less production of metalloproteinase enzyme that destroys collagen and leaves your skin sagging.
In a second step done with human volunteers, we evaluated the action of the cream in real time, using biophysical techniques and image of the skin. It was also used a technique called reflectance confocal microscopy laser, which allows you to see the changes without the use of cell biopsies.
- It was possible to observe a deep hydration and improved skin appearance lasting about 8 hours. Also significantly improved barrier function and skin texture.
Tests with confocal microscopy are not yet finalized, but according to the researcher, since it was revealed that the product has increased the thickness of the granular layer of the skin. This may be associated with a greater stimulus to cell renewal.
At all stages, we tested not only the complete formulation, but also versions that contained only one filter and the active ingredients in the study.
- We wanted to evaluate the benefit of each and the advantages of using the complete formulation.
The combination of filters with red marine algae was the most reduced the presence of p53 and caspase-3, ie, the one that prevented cell damage. The combination with Ginkgo biloba was the one that protected the skin barrier function.
Since the formula that was only the filters and vitamins increased water loss in the surface layer. According to the researcher, this is probably linked to increased cell renewal stimulated by vitamins A and C.
- Why is it important to add the plant extracts to compensate.
The higher the water loss, is more fragile and sensitive skin. This not only facilitates the penetration of ultraviolet light, but also promotes diseases such as contact dermatitis and eczema topic.
According to the researcher, the formulation was the most complete hydrates and protects the skin's barrier function, improving appearance and reducing wrinkles and roughness. But she warns that the product is to be used on a daily basis and not when the exposure to the sun is intense at the beach or pool.
- Solar radiation accelerates cell proliferation. It is a way to try to defend the body, leaving the skin thicker. But it happens so fast that, to avoid damage to DNA, is apoptosis, or programmed cell death.
Exposure to sunlight, she added, the sunscreen should have a maximum of antioxidants, such as Ginkgo biloba and vitamin E.
Source: News R7
Our news are taken in full of our partner sites. For this reason, we can not change their content even in cases of spelling errors.
This article was translated by an automatic translation system, and was therefore not reviewed by people.